The true face of Milan
AD CORE DEVISE DESIGNER COLUMN Vol.180 I went to Milan Design Week again this April. I've been going to Milan Salone since I was 24, so that makes it 40 years now. Initially, it was the International Furniture Fair held at Fiera Milano City, a trade fair venue near the city center, conveniently located just 7 stops from the Duomo. It was held in September at that venue, and I remember the last year I went it was as hot as midsummer, with no air conditioning, and the halogen lights illuminating the booths made the inside of the building feel like a sauna. (Back then, it was common for shops in Milan not to have air conditioning.) Since 2005, it has been held at the current Fiera Milano Rho, on the outskirts of Milan, which relieved us from the heat, but it's now 17 subway stops and about 30 minutes further from the Duomo, and the venue is huge, making it difficult to walk around. Since then, various events have been held in the Tortona area, which is a former factory site, and in the city center of Milan, attracting people from all over the world. The Milan Furniture Fair (Salone del Mobile) is known as one of the two major furniture fairs, along with the Cologne International Furniture Fair held in Cologne, Germany. The kitchen exhibition held concurrently is now held biennially in Italy and Germany, and in the years when the kitchen exhibition is held at the Milan Furniture Fair, many interior designers attend. In recent years, this joint kitchen exhibition with Germany has begun to break down, and German kitchen brands have started to focus on showroom exhibitions in Milan and no longer exhibit at the Fiera. As a result, the space inside the venue has been left unused year after year, and this year the aisles were widened and curtains were hung to hide the extra space. The same was true for the lighting exhibition last year. The same is true for furniture brands; many major brands that exhibited at the Fiera have opened showrooms in the city and established permanent exhibitions, and the number of major manufacturers that used to visit 10 years ago has been halved. This is because they have judged that it is more cost-effective to open showrooms in the city than to pay the soaring exhibition fees and set up huge booths at the trade fair venue. In the past, buyers from all over the world gathered at the exhibition, where they tried to generate a year's worth of sales in just one week. Both buyers and sellers were serious about the event, and the intense sales-oriented atmosphere was palpable during the first three days of buyer days (when the general public was not allowed). Now, major brands have agents in their respective global regions, and franchise agencies in major cities, making new sourcing impossible. With communication and payment easily handled online, the exhibition's presentation style has shifted from being buyer-centric to a platform for showcasing an image to the user. This focus on image presentation has attracted crowds, and city events have taken advantage of this, turning the period into a design festival. There are now many brand advertising events, including installations beyond furniture brands, which have attracted large crowds and led to soaring hotel prices. The rising travel costs during Salone in recent years have been a problem, but this year, with the yen depreciating and the euro rising by about 20%, the hotel I've been staying at for the past few years, which cost around 60,000 yen per night two years ago, rose to 93,000 yen last year, and is now over 120,000 yen. The current price is exorbitant compared to 15 years ago when our company was running Milan Salone tours and the price was around 20,000 yen. Therefore, this year we changed the itinerary from the usual three-day stay starting on Wednesday to Friday through Sunday, which are general public days, to make hotel costs a little cheaper. (The price for Sunday, the last day, is halved.) I also decided to extend my stay by three days to see what the city is like after the Salone period. It was my first time visiting Milan on the last day, Sunday, and my first time seeing Milan after the Salone period had ended in the 40 years I've been coming here. On the last day, Sunday, the lines for the fashion brand events were so long that I gave up on getting in, but the showrooms of famous furniture brands, which are also well-known in Japan, were deserted. It seems that ordinary citizens aren't interested in furniture showrooms. At the same hotel, where the price for accommodation was reduced to 1/5 from Monday, the breakfast area suddenly became crowded. During the Salone period, the seats were never full, but it was bustling with regular business people. Admittedly, I can't afford to spend more than 100,000 yen on hotel accommodations for business trips, and the hotel I stayed at was a typical Japanese business hotel, usually used by business travelers. I was surprised when I walked around the city after Salone ended; the bustling streets were deserted, and there were no entry restrictions at the furniture and kitchen brand showrooms. I just walked in through the empty entrances, and inside there were only a few staff members working at their usual leisurely pace. I could look around, sit down, and take pictures to my heart's content. The popular kitchen brand in Brera also had long lines during Salone, and for the past few years I'd given up on even seeing it, or if I could get in it, it was so crowded I couldn't even take pictures. But where had all that hustle and bustle gone? I had only ever known Milan during Design Week, but this was the first time I'd seen it so quietly. From next year, I think I'll visit places other than showrooms during Salone, and then visit the showrooms after it's over. New products are still on display, and you can leisurely look at the interiors and products. While it's nice to see festival-like installations, when I consider whether they'll be useful for my work, I think I could spend my time more meaningfully than seeing the fun, expo-style exhibits that are only enjoyable for a limited time. If fewer people go during the event, hotel prices might go down a bit too... Anyway, this year's Milan Design Week report will have many photos taken in relaxed spaces, so I think it will be a very worthwhile report. Stay tuned! (Noboru Seto, Creative Director)